Katja Collects: Maison Martin Margiela

Are you captivated by the vibrant art marketplace? So are we. From groundbreaking auctions to intriguing private sales, we think every piece has a story—and an impact. At Berkley One, we’re thrilled to introduce our new Katja Collects series, where our very own Katja Zigerlig, VP of Art, Wine and Collectibles Advisory, dives deep into the art world to spotlight fascinating sales and unveil their significance. Whether it’s a record-breaking masterpiece, a rediscovered gem, or a rising star’s new triumph, each feature will explore the cultural and financial ripples these sales create. Join us on this journey as Katja shares her insights, passion, and expertise, uncovering what makes art not just collectible, but unforgettable.

This month, we’re looking at the sale of Maison Martin Margiela’s black and white wool suit with polka dots from the Spring-Summer 1990 collection.

Prefer to read a text version of the above graphic? We’ve got you covered below!

What: Martin Margiela: The Early Years, 1988-94
When: Jan. 27, 2025
Where: Maurice Auctions, via Drouot Auctions, Paris, France
Sold: $101,400
Description: Lot#34; Maison Martin Margiela black and white wool suit with polka dots; Spring-Summer 1990

________________________________________

See It:

The Belgian fashion designer Martin Margiela graduated from the Royal Academy of Fine Arts in Antwerp and is part of a group of Belgian designers (including Dries can Noten and Ann Demeulemeester) who helped usher in the era of minimalist aesthetic in the 1990s. In contrast to today’s hyper visible influencer culture, Margiela intentionally avoided the spotlight. He didn’t have his picture taken. He didn’t grant press interviews. He abstained from marketing his clothes. His most iconic anti-commercial statement was his clothing label, which was an anti-label— a blank, white rectangular label with white stitching as his hallmark. Margiela left his eponymous label in 2008 to dedicate himself fulltime to artwork. Since then, his influence is still felt in current trends for upcycling, deconstruction, and oversized silhouettes.
Twice a year, Paris-based auction house Maurice Auction and London-based Kerry Taylor Auctions join forces to hold sales of fashion and couture. This exclusive Martin Margiela auction of 270 lots consisted of early works dating from 1988 to 1994 and were all part of the personal collection of the sisters Angela and Elena Picozzi. The sale included many never-worn designs, styles that never made it into the stores at the time, and museum-worthy ensembles.

Lot #34, a black and white wool suit, achieved the top price of the auction, at $101,400 Euros. This piece exemplifies Margiela’s creative reinvention of taking men’s suits and adapting them to a female silhouette. The double-breasted jacket has been taken in at the waist – creating a feminine contour. The sleeves are detachable, offering the option to wear it as a tailored vest. The sleeves are also asymmetrical and made of different fabrics. The oversized skirt cascades out of the tailored jacket. This ensemble is not labeled, so perhaps it was a prototype or runway piece.

________________________________________

Why I’d collect it:

I’ve been a fan of Margiela’s fashion since the 1990s and regret the Margiela clothing I’ve re-sold over the years. I’ve always enjoyed Margiela’s craft and concepts. It’s not always “beautiful” in the classic sense of the word, but it appeals to me, and some of his clothes are like being able to wear a sculpture. As I’m old enough to have experienced many fashion cycles, I can also appreciate his breakthrough vision in a historical context.

________________________________________

Why I’d insure it:

As a piece of fashion history by an iconic designer, this ensemble qualifies as a collectible. The history of fashion is getting more attention, and certain fashion designers are being celebrated for their creative contributions to a very tactile and visual medium. Also, museums are hosting more fashion and couture related exhibits, which further underscores historical context and collectability.